Kyoto & Osaka Adventures – Matt’s Trip To Japan

Just wait until I tell you about my weekend! It was positively, absolutely incredible!

My brother Matt and his friend Tim came to Japan for a holiday. I couldn’t unfortunately take a lot of time off from work as it’s a really busy season for Japanese schools, but I was able to pop down to Osaka and Kyoto this weekend to play local tour guide. I was so excited to see my little brother I could hardly sleep the days leading up to our adventure!

Saturday we toured around Kyoto and I brought the boys to some of my favourite places and temples. I knew it would be my last trip to Kyoto, so it was really nice to see my favourite temples one last time and share them with my brother.

First stop was Kinkakuji Temple. The boys were delighted to get to ring the enormous bell inside the temple grounds.

Then we meandered over, through the throngs of school kiddies out on their annual school trip, to the actual pavilion. I had never seen Kinkakuji look so beautiful! The temple was magnificent to behold with a robins egg blue sky in the background and the brilliant sunshine making it really sparkle. Also, the iris flowers around the temple pond were in full bloom much to my delight! (For more info in Kinkakuji click here)

We arrived in downtown Kyoto, it was a scorcher of a hot day so we grabbed some matcha ice cream and took a shameless selfie. Our tongues turned thoroughly green and our stomachs happy, we skipped down the street to relax and putter around my favourite zen temple Kennin-ji. Matt and Tim both said that it was their favourite temple in Japan so far. Or perhaps I was simply so enthusiastic about being there, and singing it’s numerous praises, they dared not break my bubble of happiness…

My favourite part of that whole day was walking around Kennin-ji and finally sitting down for a ‘quiet’ moment to contemplate the beautiful rock garden! Matt and Tim made friends with some of the cute girls wearing kimono and these photos were the highlight of their day.

Truly tuckered out I retreated to my favourite cafe Malebranche in Kyoto Station to relax a little while the boys went shopping for Japanese goodies.  This was a  bittersweet and nostalgic moment, Malebranche’s cafe is one of my favourite cafes in the world and it would be my last time ever sitting there in it’s tranquility and comfort.

It’s a good thing I rested up because that night we went out on the town! Osaka’s big city lights lured the boys out of the hostel for a few beers and good times. I had to call it quits at 2 am little party pooper that I am eventhough the boys were ready to stay out till the sun came up; what can I say, these old bones of mine just couldn’t keep up! 

 

We woke up tired but excited Sunday morning. Today was the day we were off to see some owls! A new and big trend in Japan is Owl Cafes which is basically a place where you go to hang out with live owls! Matt and I are die-hard Harry Potter fans, so this interaction with live owls was a dream come true.

Osaka today, Hogwarts tomorrow! Oh how I wish!  We had a hoot at the Owl Cafe in Osaka (*wink wink*) and we all agreed it was a really memorable experience.

It’s pretty hard to beat that experience but I was determined to visit the Fushimi Inari Shrine with the boys. They were so templed-out by this point (a common affliction in Kyoto) that I had to promise them this was the grand finale and insist that they couldn’t leave Japan without seeing this magical place.

I normally hate to say, “I told you so!” but this was one of those times I couldn’t resist. The boys even admitted afterwards that they definitely would have regretted not going! I’m a pretty good tour guide, if I do say so myself. (For more info on the Fushimi Inari Shrine in Kyoto click here)

All too soon we had to say our goodbyes. I to go back to work in Fukui, and the boys to go on to have more crazy Japan adventures. Luckily it wouldn’t be long until we saw each other again. On Friday they will be coming to Fukui and I can’t wait to show them around my stomping grounds!

Fushimi Inari Shrine, Kyoto

No trip to Kyoto is complete without a visit to the Fushimi Inari Shrine. This shrine is my #1 sightseeing recommendation in Kyoto. The reason being not only is it a spectacular view it’s also a magical experience to explore this shrine too. I’ve attempted to write down everything I have learned about this shrine to improve your experience when you visit and answer commonly asked questions. I hope it can help future visitors to Kyoto!

A long time ago I watched the movie “Memoirs of a Geisha” and the scene where a young Sayuri runs through a tunnel of orange gates to make a prayer was imprinted in my memory. I promised myself one day I would see it with my own eyes.  When I arrived in Japan and stood looking at the orange tunnel nearly 10 years later, I still remembered how I felt when I first saw it. “This must be a dream,” I thought to myself too stunned to take a step inside. My friend looked back at me, wondering why I had stopped talking and walking. As I slowly stepped under the first gate and into the tunnel that seemed to stretch on towards the heavens, I was very overcome with a wave of emotion. I couldn’t come up with the words to explain to my friend how magical the whole experience was.  It was the moment a childhood dream became a reality. Many people I’ve spoken to who have visited this shrine say similar experiences happened to them. I’ve witnessed tourists actually jump for joy when they first see the orange gates and couples hug one another. Clearly I’m not the only one for whom seeing the Fushimi Inari Shrine is a dream come true.

About the Fushimi-Inari Shrine:

The Fushimi-Inari Shrine is a popular shrine for tourists located just outside the city center of Kyoto. It’s most famous for it’s orange gates, filmed in the movie “Memoirs of a Geisha”, which form a tunnel that tourists may walk through.  These gates are called “torii” in Japanese. It is possible to walk under the torii all the way to the top of the sacred Mt. Inari, which is 233m high. 

When you first arrive you’ll see the largest torii gate of the Fushimi-Inari Shrine. I think this one of the best photo opportunities so be sure to snap a picture before heading into the shrine.Take you time exploring the main temple grounds, and be sure to take a peak into a tiny temple located on the far right of the main temple area. It has thousands of paper cranes. The hopes and dreams of shrine visitors in a rainbow of offerings is always something I enjoy seeing.  According to Japanese legend, if you fold 1000 paper cranes your wish is supposed to be granted. Once you’ve finished exploring the main temple grounds, head up the stairs, and begin your hike through the torii tunnel.

These torii gates, interestingly enough, are all donations by families or companies. On the back of the torii gates you will see written in black kanji the donator’s name and the date it was donated. A small torii is around 400,000 yen as much as 1 million yen!!!!The further up you walk the fewer people you will see and the quieter it will become, the steep slopes effectively weaning out those unfit for the challenge of a climb (*cough cough* the women wearing stilettos never make it very far, never fear). This is where you’ll easily be able to get photos with just you and your companions, the real trick will be waiting for a friendly person to take your picture!

What’s With All The Foxes?!?

By the time you finish exploring the shrine, you may be curious as to why you saw so many statues of foxes.  This is because foxes in Japanese culture are regarded as messenger spirits. The Japanese word for fox is “kitsune” and if you look carefully you’ll see many restaurants in this area serving kitsune udon. Don’t be alarmed, it’s not fox noodle soup! Kitsune udon is a delicious dish made with thick udon noodles served in a dashi based soup stock and served with a piece of fried tofu. Kitsune udon is named after the Japanese fox because according to legend fox spirits are big fans of abura-age, the deep fried tofu that gives all the flavour to this great food.

My 6 Tips For Visiting Fushimi Inari Shrine:

1. Wear comfortable shoes! I really do mean this, wear running shoes or at least comfy sneakers.
2. Budget plenty of time as it’s quite a long walk to the very top.
3. Don’t let other people hurry you, walk at a slow pace and savor the moment.
4. Be patient taking photos. If you’re patient and wait for the perfect moment you’ll be able to get great solo shots.
5. Try and go early in the morning, or towards the end of the day (if possible) as the experience is more magical the fewer the people. If you do, you’ll also be able to get photos in the torii tunnel with only you!
6. If you don’t have time to do the entire walk to the top walk as far as you feel comfortable, but be sure to at least reach the beautiful photography point where 2 tunnels appear!

How To Get To Fushimi-Inari Shrine:

There are several ways to get to the Fushimi Inari shrine. I highly recommend traveling by one of the train lines!

• By JR Line: Take the JR Nara Line train from Kyoto station to JR Inari Station (Time: 5 minutes, Price: 140yen, 2 stops later)
• By Private Train Line: From Kyoto Station take the Keihan Line to Fushimi Inari Station
• By Bus: If you have the Kyoto Bus Sighseeing Pass you can access the shrine via the #5 bus from Kyoto Station. (See the map here) *I do not recommend this option as it take far too long compared to a train. It’s worth spending the extra money to get there quickly.*

What To Do In Kyoto

If there is one city in Japan I wish I could spend more time exploring it’s Kyoto. Being an avid lover of traditional culture, Kyoto is the epitome of everything I love about Japan.

I think Japan is a very unique country for many reasons. One of the biggest being that Japan is fortunate to have not only a very strong traditional culture that is still alive today, but also a second evolving modern culture. If you’re looking to explore Japan’s modern culture I recommend Tokyo with its big city lights…. but if like me you’re looking to immerse yourself in the more subtle traditional culture, than Kyoto is where you’ll find what you seek.

Kyoto is home to more than 2,000 religious sites such as temples and shrines, and there are hundreds of beautiful gardens in addition to that! You could spend a month here and still have things to see! All in all, it can be quite daunting for a traveller to decide which places to visit, especially with only limited time to explore.

I have traveled to Kyoto six times now since I arrived in Japan two and a half years ago. I wish I knew then what I know now. It would have saved me a lot of stress when planning to visit this maze of temples with family and friends. This is why I’ve complied a list of the best things for Kyoto visitors to experience.  I wanted to share my recommendations so that you too can see the best Kyoto has to offer.

Top 10 Places To Visit in Kyoto

#1) Fushimi Inari Shrine  (伏見稲荷大社) – Choosing my #1 recommendation for Kyoto was tough. This one was the winner because it’s not just a beautiful place to see, it’s also an experience like no other in Kyoto. Nothing can compare with the magical atmosphere felt walking up the mountain passing under the orange torii gates for what feels like a small eternity. (More info here)

#2) Kinkakuji Temple  (金閣寺) – The Golden Pavilion is hands down the most beautiful structure in all of Kyoto and absolutely can not be missed if visiting. (More info here)

#3) Kiyomizudera Temple (清水寺) – One of the most popular temples to visit in the heart of Kyoto. The streets and shops leading up to it are very quaint.  Also, the trees surrounding the temple are breathtaking in spring during cherry blossom season & in autumn with the fall colors. (More info here)

#4) Explore the Arashiyama area – There is SO much to do here, it’s the perfect day trip to escape the chaos of Kyoto. Be sure not to miss the bamboo grove! Check out the monkey mountain and some of the beautiful gardens if you have a whole day to spare.

#5) Kenninji Temple (建仁寺) – Located in the heart of the Gion district, Kenninji has the most breathtakingly beautiful dragon ceiling and its calm, relaxing atmosphere makes it one of my favourite temples to wander around. (More info here)

#6) Gion Street At Night – Gion is the oldest district of Kyoto, the area you’re most likely to catch a glimpse of an elusive ‘maiko’.  At dusk (just after the sun’s gone down and the lights come on) is the best time to take in this area’s splendor.

#7) Sanjusangendo Hall (三十三間堂) – A stunning hall filled with 30,000 golden deity statues is sure to wow any visitor to Kyoto. I love this temple because it’s very different from all the other temples and there’s nothing else like it in Kyoto, perfect for anyone who’s feeling a little “templed-out” or “over-shrined”

#8) Nishiki Market  (錦市場) – This is a large covered market area with lots of local goods and foods (tempura chocolate anyone?). Grabbing lunch here one day is sure to be an adventure, and an excellent place to do a little shopping.

9) Shopping in Kyoto Station + Malebranche Cafe – As powdered green tea is one of Kyoto’s specialties, visitors often want to try matcha and matcha sweets. My favourite hideout is the Malebranche Cafe which is located on the bottom floor of Kyoto Station. These desserts are seriously Kyoto’s best kept secret.  It’s the perfect place to recharge after a little shopping in one of Kyoto’s coolest shopping centers, all of which is underground and therefore perfect if the weather’s not the nicest!

10) Ryoanji Temple (龍安寺) – This temple, whose name poetically translates as “The Temple of the Dragon at Peace”, is home to one of Japan’s most beautiful rock gardens. It’s one of Kyoto’s quieter and less busy temples, so feelings of zen and great tranquility can be felt here as you sit gazing out at the garden. 

If you have any other recommendations, or special little gems in Kyoto you’ve stumbled upon, I’d love to here them! I’ll be going to Kyoto for one last visit in May and I’m already excited!

Memoirs of a Maiko

I have amazing friends, something I’m incredibly grateful for. Three of my good friends from Canada recently came to visit me for 14 days and travel around Japan with me as their tour guide. There are days where I wake up and wonder if it was all just a dream, because it was that amazing; it seems too good to be true. Sadly however, all dreams must come to an end and my friends returned home and I returned to my busy job. The fun we had still brings a smile to my face even as I sit grading the neglected mountain of essays that awaited my return. Visions of cat cafes, shopping in Harajuku, karaoke marathons and Suntory whiskey dance in my head. It was assuredly one of the highlights of my 3 years in Japan.

Reflecting now on our time together, one afternoon in particular was my favourite; the afternoon we underwent the transformation from cute caterpillars to breathtaking butterflies. One of the things I really wanted to experience with my friends was dressing up like a maiko (or as most people in the West would say, geisha). Maiko, meaning “children of the arts” as they prefer to be called, and are the traditional Japanese traditioanl art entertainers in Kyoto.

One of my friends in Fukui had done this when her sister visited and I enviously poured over her photos. I wanted to do it too, very badly! I was far to shy to ever do this alone however, I absolutely needed backup. Cue best friends planning their visit to Japan. I waited with the patience of a cat ready to pounce, and casually suggested the experience and waited with baited breath. After all we are all 25-year old mature adults; long gone are the days we dressed up in our mothers clothes and inexpertly smeared makeup over our faces convinced we were little fashion masters. I was really nervous they wouldn’t want to dress up as maiko with me. Luckily they all agreed! Best decision of the trip!

At first I was a little shy to post these photos, but my friends kept begging to see all the photos so here they are, so enjoy everyone!

The photos with the umbrella were my absolute favourite. The man taking the photos was so professional and had the process down to an art, and even though we spoke different languages somehow everything turned out breathtakingly. I wasn’t allowed to see any photos during the shoot and so when I received a series of pictures at the end of the session I was stunned. I couldn’t believe it was actually me in the photos. I looked so…beautiful (sorry for the vanity everyone)!

Here is a full shot of the kimono I wore that day and holding the traditional package-style purse of maiko in Kyoto. Walking in those shoes was bloody HARD for the record. The photographer and I had quite a few laughs as I attempted to move my body for the poses he directed, nearly dying numerous times in the process. I was the most beautiful “bambi” you can imagine. Eventually I found my balance, mastered the knack of moving in a kimono and got the hang of teetering around in these babies. Tada!

After the shoes came challenge number 2: sitting Japanese style and arranging my body in the traditional Japanese room. I thanked heaven for 2 years of studying tea ceremony because sitting seiza (Japanese style with both legs tucked neatly underneath your body) wasn’t too difficult.  The photographer actually mini-applauded me for grace with which I was able to sit down whilst wearing the bulky kimono, what with all of it’s layers and tight obi ensuring I could not lean forward the teensiest iota. For most foreigners this is incredibly difficult, the only way to master this is practice, even Japanese women struggle.

I absolutely loved the particular red kimono that I chose for the day.  The company owns about 60 kimonos in various styles, lengths and colours. I wanted to stand out so I chose a very traditional bold red colour. Wasn’t it simply marvellous!? I was really nervous because I’m very tall for Japan (175cm, 5feet 9inches), but they had many kimonos for my height! So if you’re tall like me don’t worry you’ll have a nice selection I promise.

Well there you have it folks! My maiko photos to view at your leisure. My favourite thing was that, at no extra fee, the company also took 2 group photos for us. It strictly speaking wasn’t part of the deal, so I was very grateful they did so. We were also allowed to take as many photos on our own cameras throughout the whole process (including the getting ready makeup part) which was really cool. I’ll be sure to post some of those soon once my friends upload them! 

For anyone else hoping to do the same I really recommend Yumekoubou-Maiko Makeover Studio. We went to the one at the base of the Kiyomizudera Temple and had a great experience there.

You can find out more information or to make a online reservation please visit their website here: http://www.yumekoubou.info/english/

Plan: We opted for the Maiko Makeover + Walking Plan, which took about 3 hours, and cost 13,125yen. This plan includes a CD with all of your professionally shot photos.  We chose the short walking course which was only about 15 minutes outside total (you walk to a small temple, take some photos and go back) because of the difficulty walking in the geta shoes.  Also, the lady staff member with us recommend the short (versus long) walking course because the tourists tend to mob you the second you leave the studio, she was right everywhere we walked people wanted photos.

Other points: The company was very English friendly, not perfect, but easy to understand for people who can’t speak Japanese.  The ladies dressing us and doing our makeup were very friendly. The company had a lovely array of kimonos to choose from. Bring a camera of your own as it’s perfectly ok to take your own photos throughout the entire process!

If you’re in Kyoto and looking for an unforgetable experience I hope you can enjoy doing this too! If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask!